- Filler cap and neck
- Tank
- In-tank pump module
- Filter
- Lines
- Fuel rail
- Injectors
- Cylinder
- Air filter
- Air flow sensor
- Intake duct
- Turbo or supercharger (if fitted)
- Intercooler
- Throttle body
- Intake manifold
Fuel system
The fuel system runs from the filler cap to the injectors. Most modern vehicles use an electric pump inside the tank, often as part of a module with the fuel level sender. Many newer engines also use a high-pressure pump on the engine for direct injection. Diesel engines have their own high-pressure systems.
Common parts
- FA·1Fuel pumps and fuel pump modules
- FA·2Fuel level senders
- FA·3Fuel injectors and injector seals
- FA·4Fuel rails and pressure regulators
- FA·5High-pressure pumps for direct injection
- FA·6Fuel tanks, straps, filler necks, and caps
- FA·7Fuel lines, hoses, and quick-connect fittings
- FA·8Fuel pump relays and control modules
Finding the right fit
Fuel parts often vary by tank size, engine, and drive type within the same model year. A pump sold alone is not the same as a full module with the sender. Injectors differ in flow rate and connector style even when they look alike. Match the part to the engine and read the tank capacity from the owner’s manual or a VIN-based lookup when the listing asks for it.
Air intake and forced induction
The intake side filters and measures incoming air, and the throttle controls how much reaches the engine. Turbochargers and superchargers push in extra air for more power from a smaller engine.
Common parts
- FA·1Air filter housings, intake ducts, and resonators
- FA·2Throttle bodies and idle air control valves
- FA·3Intake manifolds and plenum parts
- FA·4Turbochargers, superchargers, wastegates, and blow-off valves
- FA·5Intercoolers and charge-air pipes
- FA·6Cold air intake kits
Signs of trouble
A cracked intake duct after the air flow sensor can cause a lean code, a rough idle, or stalling. A dirty throttle body can cause an unsteady idle. A turbo that whines, smokes, or loses boost may have worn bearings or a leak in the charge pipes, which is the cheaper fix to check first.
Finding the right fit
Intake and turbo parts are closely tied to the engine code. Aftermarket intake kits may not be legal for road use in every state, so check whether the kit carries the emissions approval your state requires.
Before you order
Start with the year, make, model, and engine, then narrow it down with the trim, drive type, and any option the part depends on. The VIN is the most reliable way to do that, because many parts catalogs and dealer counters decode it to the exact build. If the old part is in hand, its original-equipment number is the best cross-reference. Aftermarket brands publish their own numbers and usually list the original number they replace. Two listings that both say they fit can still differ, so compare the photos, connectors, mounting points, and the notes in the listing. The find the right part guide covers this step, and the all makes reference lists each maker’s official parts catalog.
Once you know the part number, compare the same number across stores. Look past the first price at the core charge, shipping, the return window, and what the warranty covers and who honors it. A remanufactured part, a new aftermarket part, and an original-equipment part can each be the right choice, but they are not the same purchase. The compare prices and warranties guide walks through what to read. Prices on PartIndex carry the date they were recorded, so confirm the current price and fitment with the retailer before you buy.
Gasoline and its vapor ignite easily. Relieve fuel pressure the way the service information describes before you open a line, disconnect the battery, work outdoors or with good airflow, and keep an extinguisher rated for fuel fires nearby. Direct injection systems run at very high pressure.