Steering
Most cars use a rack-and-pinion steering gear, and many trucks use a steering gearbox with linkage. Hydraulic systems use a pump and fluid; most newer vehicles use electric power steering with a motor on the column or rack.
Common parts
- 1Steering racks and steering gearboxes
- 2Inner and outer tie rod ends
- 3Pitman arms, idler arms, center links, and drag links
- 4Power steering pumps, reservoirs, and hoses
- 5Electric power steering motors and modules
- 6Steering columns, intermediate shafts, and steering wheels
Signs of trouble
Loose or wandering steering can point at tie rod ends or worn linkage. A whine when turning, especially at low speed, can mean low power steering fluid or a worn pump. Heavy steering on an electric system often sets a warning light. Leaks at the rack boots point at the rack seals.
Finding the right fit
Steering parts vary by drive type, ride height, and steering system. An alignment is needed after replacing tie rods or a rack.
Suspension
Springs carry the weight of the vehicle, dampers control how quickly it moves, and arms and joints locate each wheel. Many vehicles use struts at the front, which combine a damper and a structural support, and shocks at the rear. Some use air springs or electronically controlled dampers.
Common parts
- SS·1Shocks, struts, and complete strut assemblies
- SS·2Coil springs, leaf springs, and air springs
- SS·3Control arms, ball joints, and bushings
- SS·4Sway bars, sway bar links, and bushings
- SS·5Strut mounts and bearings
- SS·6Knuckles, subframes, and suspension hardware
- SS·7Air suspension compressors and ride height sensors
Finding the right fit
Suspension parts vary by drive type, ride height, trim, and whether the vehicle has an electronic or air system. Replace shocks and struts in axle pairs. A wheel alignment is usually needed after replacing struts, control arms, or tie rods.
Symptom to part
| What you notice | Usually points at | Check first |
|---|---|---|
| Clunk over bumps | Sway bar links or bushings | Grab and shake each link with the wheels on the ground |
| Wandering steering | Tie rod ends or worn linkage | Check for play with a helper turning the wheel |
| Bounce after a dip | Worn shocks or struts | Look for oil on the damper body |
| Inside or outside edge tire wear | Worn parts or alignment | Inspect joints, then align |
Before you order
Start with the year, make, model, and engine, then narrow it down with the trim, drive type, and any option the part depends on. The VIN is the most reliable way to do that, because many parts catalogs and dealer counters decode it to the exact build. If the old part is in hand, its original-equipment number is the best cross-reference. Aftermarket brands publish their own numbers and usually list the original number they replace. Two listings that both say they fit can still differ, so compare the photos, connectors, mounting points, and the notes in the listing. The find the right part guide covers this step, and the all makes reference lists each maker’s official parts catalog.
Once you know the part number, compare the same number across stores. Look past the first price at the core charge, shipping, the return window, and what the warranty covers and who honors it. A remanufactured part, a new aftermarket part, and an original-equipment part can each be the right choice, but they are not the same purchase. The compare prices and warranties guide walks through what to read. Prices on PartIndex carry the date they were recorded, so confirm the current price and fitment with the retailer before you buy.
Coil springs store a great deal of energy. Do not take a strut apart without a proper spring compressor and training, or buy a complete assembly instead. Support the vehicle on stands and follow the torque values, which are often meant to be set with the vehicle at ride height.